Wednesday 27 May 2015

Lowlife 121 – A Happy Valley

A Happy Valley

By Dominic Horton

My friend Fran said to me that taking a holiday is essential, even if it is at the expense of paying the bills. This is the way artistic people like Fran carry on in life and rightly so I say. So to that end I am going against the grain and planning a little break, only for two days and the destination is barely outside of my home county of the West Midlands, but nonetheless it qualifies as a bona fida holiday and I am very much looking forward to it. I use the phrase 'going against the grain' as in my adult life holidays have been few and far between due to a variety of reasons including being skint, having no-one to go with and having mental illness difficulties. My main summer holiday in recent years has been a night of camping in the Shire with the likes of Sleepy Tom, Fudgkins, the Abdul and other assorted waifs to enjoy the beer festival at The Bell at Pensax and as my faithful readers know, I do regularly visit my holiday home of the Flagon & Gorses, which always proves to be restorative despite me never returning homeward with a sun tan or a stick of rock.

The late Alex Munro.
I did have regular holidays as a child, including an annual visit to Llandudno with my elder brother The Albino under the stewardship of my Grandad Tom and Nanny Edna. The coach, run by Evergreens, used to set out from around the corner from my grandparents' house on Shell Corner and proceed forthwith to our destination in North Wales, stopping just the once on the long journey, at a café near Chester. It makes you wonder how we managed in the days before there were toilets on coaches but looking back people were not as big on hydration in the 1970's as they are now so it was not as much of an issue. A cup of tea with breakfast would see you through to another one at lunch time, or elevenses if you were lucky. Boys drank pop or milk but men only drank tea and beer, never water, and even coffee was a rarity mainly because it was generally disgusting. Grandad and Nan drank Camp coffee, which wasn't granulated but in liquid form – I rest my case. Camp coffee was even a bit racist as its label depicted a British army officer in India being served coffee by his Sikh orderly (but not as racist as Hitler Ice Cream, which was controversially unearthed in India [ironically] this week by The Daily Mail.)

Back then there were no flashy electronic devices such as Ipads, DS's or DVD players to keep children entertained so the Albino and I used to mainly spend the coach journey by feeling sick because of all the cigarette smoke generated by the adults. It was always a relief to get to the half way house café to get a breathe of fresh air before the renewed onslaught of nicotine on the second half of the journey. By the time we reached Llandudno my lungs felt like I'd spend hours in a smoking towering inferno but unfortunately Steve McQueen failed to rescue me.
The Albino, Nanny Edna & the Author at St Helier guest
house, Llandudno, late 1970's.

We always stayed at the same guest house, St Helier, which was run by friendly Liverpudlians Betty and Eddie. The other guests at Betty and Eddie's were always familiar to us as we used to go the same week every year, so we knew everyone and in the dining room the guests would annually chart the growth and progress of the Albino and I. One guest in particular, old Mr Bray, sticks in my mind. Bray, a shortish stout man of a kindly disposition, was a war hero and he had injured his neck in conflict so it was permanently crooked at an angle, so it often took him a great deal of maneuvering to turn around to speak to other diners behind him.

Despite the weather being hot (it was always sunny and warm when we went to Llandudno) Mr Bray used to wear a shirt with a detachable collar over a vest, a tie and a three piece suit and highly polished brogues. When Mr Bray walked down the beach side promenade with his wife he would additionally have a rain coat over his arm and a trilby on his head. When Bray ate his hot soup at the evening meal his fleshy, thick neck used to bulge out over his starched, tight collar and it used to make me sweat just watching him. When the main meal was served Mrs Bray could be seen surreptitiously wrapping off cuts of chicken or beef in a serviette and slyly putting the package into her handbag – apparently the Brays used to use the meat for the following day's luncheon sandwiches, as the guest house only provided breakfast and evening meals.

Camp Coffee
The Albino and I used to share a family room with Nan and Grandad, with them sleeping in a double bed and us two boys occupying a bunk bed, which seemed exotic to us. There was a wash basin in the room but the shared bathroom was down the hallway as en suite rooms were not known in working class circles in those days. If I didn't get to sleep before Grandad Tom then I would be in all sorts of bother as he was a dreadful snorer (or a good one more like) and his bellowing fog horn noises would keep me up all night. How Nanny Edna put up with Grandad's cacophonous snoring gawd only knows.

Regardless of how well we had slept the Albino and I were ushered out of bed early in the morning as we had our routines to go through before we settled down to breakfast in the dining room. Grandad Tom would wash in the basin and with the aid of a fully equipped and maintained leather-bound shaving kit he would meticulously guide his razor over his whiskers. We used to then leave Nan to it, to get ready, and we walked down the town to get the papers for Grandad and comics for us children and we would sit in the sunshine on a promenade bench reading our respective publications. As the Albino and I got older we would want to read the newspapers ourselves to see if we could find any football news in the sports pages but we would be lucky to find a treasured snippet of transfer news as it was close season and unlike today there was no saturation coverage of football.

A comprehensive breakfast of cereals, toast and marmalade and an English breakfast set us up for the day and off we all went to the Great Orme, Happy Valley or the beach. One time when on the beach I had to dart away from a pursuing crab for fear of feeling the wrath of its claws and in the process I fell and cut my knee on a rock. Nan wrapped my knee in her handkerchief and kissed me better. I still have the scar to this day, though it has become faint over time.
Hitler ice cream, by request of Toby In-Tents.

The Happy Valley is a garden and lawns in a sheltered hollow on the East side of the Great Orme, a large rocky out crop. The Happy Valley was a pleasant venue for holiday makers to relax but I remember it being a bit of a frustrating place as the lawns were sloped so it was difficult to play football. There was an open air theatre and an old Scottish music hall comedian and singer named Alex Munro seemed to have a monopoly there and the sounds of his shows could be heard resonating out over Happy Valley at intervals all day long. Thrillingly cable cars travelled from Happy Valley up to the top of the Great Orme and it was beyond exciting getting to travel in them, the highlight of the year, let alone the holiday. A café at the top of the Orme housed old fruit machines and amusements.

The Author & Grandad Tom at Conway Castle.
In the evening we repaired to The Golden Goose amusement arcade, which was one of the highlights of the day. Grandad would give The Albino and I a set amount of money to fritter away, which we did with glee, occasionally winning on the one arm bandits but losing more often than not. One year The Goose introduced a two person boxing amusement with small figures of Muhammad Ali and Joe Bugner and the players controlled the figures in knocking lumps out of each other, which was great fun.

I think of Llandudno periodically and sometimes consider returning there with my dear son Kenteke to visit the old holiday haunts of my childhood. In fact until only a few years ago Betty still ran St Helier guest house, well into her dotage. But Llandudno will have moved on, as have I as a person, so some happy places from one's childhood are probably best left well alone to remain fondly resting in the memory.

© Dominic Horton, May 2015.

* Lowlife is dedicated to the memory of the late Jonathan Rendall


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